Descending 4,000 meters off the Tibetan plateau, the scenery begins to change dramatically. Gone are the dulcet earth tones, glaciers, dust, and stone—replaced by lush greens, tropical reds and oranges, and brilliant yellows. Not sublime like the Tibetan landscape, but warm and sweet and welcoming. This is where the subcontinent continues to crash into the rest of Asia. The smell of curry and incense mix, flowers spill over the sides of rooftops, and woman wrap themselves in vibrant saris.

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As we travel around Asia, we’ve been comparing notes with Marco Polo—and one place on which we certainly disagree is Tibet. Amidst his account of the locals’ scandalous marriage practices, he barely mentions a lama or makes even a passing remark on the significant lack of oxygen in the air. But for us, from the sacred monasteries in Lhasa to the foot of Mt. Everest, the altitude wasn’t the only thing that exceeded expectations.

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